San Augustin Church, Manila

 

The Philippines is by far the largest predominantly Christian country in Asia, having, as a Filipina once told me, inherited Roman Catholicism, along with several other ‘bad habits’, from the Spanish.

The Filipinos enjoy a long Christmas season. Rumours of it begin in September and it echoes on into late January. The celebrations are both religious and secular. Throughout December there are many local religious processions, and the nights are peppered with the sound of firecrackers. From December 16^th there is a series of nine Missae de Gallo, predawn masses, originally attended by field workers who had to be at work by sunrise. These climax with the midnight Missa de Aguinaldo which is followed by an enormous family feast, the Noche Buena. Suckling pig, ham, roast chickens, bibingka cake, keso de bola (cheese balls), leche flan and other delicacies are swarmed over by the whole family. Finish off with a refreshing salabat (ginger tea) or tsokolate and sweet ensaimada rolls.

On Christmas Day it is traditional for children to visit their godparents and pay their respects, in return receiving aguinaldo presents.

 

 

Tsokolate  Filipino Hot Chocolate

 

Makes 1 serve, scale up as required.

 

 

1 cup milk

½ cup semisweet chocolate chips or pieces

1 egg yolk

pinch spice (optional)

 

Heat milk in a saucepan, add chocolate and simmer on low, stirring until chocolate has melted.

Lightly beat egg yolk and whisk into the milk on a low heat for 3-5 minutes until drink is frothy.

Serve, adding a pinch of pepper, cinnamon or nutmeg if you choose.

For a rich local experience use gatas ng kalabaw, carabao (water buffalo) milk, or fake it by adding some cream to the milk.

 

A certain person of my acquaintance declares Filipino hot chocolate to be the best in the world.

 

Sweets and cakes of every imaginable kind were served in one of the reception rooms with the limitless profusion for which the Indio is well known; I was led thither for a cup of chocolate, customary beverage of the rich...

Journey to Majayjay, Paul P. de la Gironiere, 1862. tr E Aquilar Cruz.

(De la Gironiere recounts his travels during Christmas from his farm to the town of Majayjay. Indio, ‘Indian’, was the expression the Spanish used for the Filipinos.)

 

One of the ubiquitous Christmas sights travelling in the Philippines is the parol, or Christmas lantern. The basic pattern is star shaped but you will find them in all shapes and sizes, constructed from all sorts of materials, cheap and expensive: from bright, recycled plastic food packaging to beautiful examples made from dyed capiz shell; from tiny ones to hang from your jeepney rear-view mirror to the giant Pampanga lanterns with internal constellations of flashing lights.

 

 

Maligayang Pasko at Manigong Bagong Taon!